Wednesday, June 11, 2008

One of the days in the townships, we visited a woman named Priscilla who has taken in about a dozen children in addition to a number of her own. They all live in a house the size of a small apartment. Over 15 people inhabit that house. I feel cramped living in a two bed room apartment with two girls, yet this new found family lives in the same space.

Since this woman struggles to put food on the table for these kids, we wanted to ease that burden for her. At least for one day. On the day we visited her home, we brought sandwich staples, chips, apples, juice, and chocolate and made lunch for the entire family. Additionally, we brought along toys for each child. I gave out a couple of bracelets to these two beautiful little girls who couldn’t have been more than four or five. I’ve never seen such illuminated faces over costume jewelry. To me the bracelets were plastic; to them, they were gold.

Priscilla is truly an amazing woman. She struggles to make ends meet for her self and family, yet finds room in her heart, as well as her home, to take in additional children, all so they don’t have to remain as orphans. Because this woman is so amazing, we students felt that we should help her cause. The house these people inhabit is in dire need of repair. As a class, we intend to raise funds to aid in the cost of fixing her home, as we really made a connection with Priscilla and her family. She is somehow able to provide a roof over their hands, so we feel that it is our duty to help make sure it is a solid one.

Sunday, June 8, 2008

Sorry for the double post yesterday!

My host family was incredible. Their home is situated on one of the main roads in Guguletu and was incredibly modern and I feel so fortunate to have been able to stay with these amazing people. The accommodations were so comfortable and I think for the first time in this country, I was warm and dry at night. My family had running hot water; this is actually a luxury for many in this community. Our breakfasts they provided us were brought out in courses, they drew the bath water for us, made our beds, and constantly made certain that we were comfortable. Staying with this family, Hilary and I felt just as content as if we were staying with our own parents. Mama was always holding our hands and grabbing our arms, always showing affection. Dada was a very intelligent man who was always talking your ear off or providing it to listen. Noku, our 21 year old sister was constantly providing us with insight about how people our age live in South Africa. This experience was more than I could have asked for. I can’t gush enough about how lucky I was to have lived so lavishly in such a loving household.

Some of the homes that we visited were literally shacks. Many of them were built of railroad car parts, posters, random pieces of plastic and other mismatched building materials. In severe weather, it is inevitable that these homes would be destroyed. Also, some of these places didn’t even have doors. To think, living in a shelter where anyone could walk in and out. And someone calls this place “home.”

Saturday, June 7, 2008

Alrightly, where does one even begin in describing the weeks’ events? The most talented writer, the most skilled painter, or the most descriptive story teller could not even begin to enlighten their audience about the things that went on in the townships this past week. So, how am I to do this experience any justice?

Driving through the streets of Gugulethu, my head was spinning. I really didn’t know what to think. Our bus tour was interrupted with stops at various sites—monuments, city buildings, community member’s homes. Just about each place we visited brought about a new wave of tears. The waterfall broke when we were standing around the monument where seven men in the township were shot and killed. As we eighteen were somber in respect of the deceased, an elementary aged girl in a school jumper was playing leap frog with the memorial tombstones. I don’t know why that hit me as hard as it did, but seeing this girl so happy amongst our sorrow was so much to handle. After approaching her and taking a few pictures, she hopped off the monument on which she was perched and skipped off and disappeared into the masses of pedestrians. It was so movie-like.

A great deal of our time in Gugulethu was spent at the Z L Zwane community center; so much of the Township’s life takes place in this gathering space. In addition to housing a dominant Presbyterian congregation every Sunday, Z L Zwane is also home to a number of other programs including an HIV/AIDS support group and an after school tutoring center called Rainbow, among many other groups and services. We were fortunate enough to use this facility to participate in all three programs as well as receive lectures each morning.

The people here are amazing. Edwin, the reverend who was instrumental in the success of this trip; Paul, a coordinator, I believe; and all of the host mothers and fathers were absolutely the most compassionate people. Additionally, the cooks, groundskeepers, and drivers were exceptional. I don’t know what they put in the water in Gugulethu, but something makes these people extraordinary.
Alrightly, where does one even begin in describing the weeks’ events? The most talented writer, the most skilled painter, or the most descriptive story teller could not even begin to enlighten their audience about the things that went on in the townships this past week. So, how am I to do this experience any justice?

Driving through the streets of Gugulethu, my head was spinning. I really didn’t know what to think. Our bus tour was interrupted with stops at various sites—monuments, city buildings, community member’s homes. Just about each place we visited brought about a new wave of tears. The waterfall broke when we were standing around the monument where seven men in the township were shot and killed. As we eighteen were somber in respect of the deceased, an elementary aged girl in a school jumper was playing leap frog with the memorial tombstones. I don’t know why that hit me as hard as it did, but seeing this girl so happy amongst our sorrow was so much to handle. After approaching her and taking a few pictures, she hopped off the monument on which she was perched and skipped off and disappeared into the masses of pedestrians. It was so movie-like.

A great deal of our time in Gugulethu was spent at the Z L Zwane community center; so much of the Township’s life takes place in this gathering space. In addition to housing a dominant Presbyterian congregation every Sunday, Z L Zwane is also home to a number of other programs including an HIV/AIDS support group and an after school tutoring center called Rainbow, among many other groups and services. We were fortunate enough to use this facility to participate in all three programs as well as receive lectures each morning.

The people here are amazing. Edwin, the reverend who was instrumental in the success of this trip; Paul, a coordinator, I believe; and all of the host mothers and fathers were absolutely the most compassionate people. Additionally, the cooks, groundskeepers, and drivers were exceptional. I don’t know what they put in the water in Gugulethu, but something makes these people extraordinary.

Friday, June 6, 2008

And we're back from the townships. While there, I felt that there was always such turbulent intense emotion. The people had so much to share and as a class we willingly soaked it up. I'm still not sure how to process and organize all of the stories and information gained in these past few days and I think it's rightfully so that I can't. A little time and reflection will help sort things out. I just wanted to say that safely, soundly, and to be honest, a little bit sadly, we are back in Cape Town.

Monday, June 2, 2008

Sunday

Coming to South Africa, I expected to be immersed into the culture. I should have known—but didn’t expect—to be so moved at church. The opening song was enough to make me tear up. This weirds me out sorta because I never used to be an emotional person. I used to be able to seem emotionless during even the most moving events. Now, apparently, all it takes is a set of bongo drums and some gospel music to bring tears to my eyes. I think I was just thinking too hard. I can’t even imagine what these people live like and how they endure the hardships that they do. It is as if the strife they undergo on a daily basis is being released in that two hour church service though their song and worship. I think maybe I am associating the power of their music with my feelings. The words they spoke carried a strong message of hope and compassion for human kind, but it was the music in Xhosa—the music that I couldn’t understand the lyrics too or make sense of, was what got me going. I sat there next to my host mother (who is super sweet, by the way) tears welling up, and I have no idea why. Maybe I will understand later on. All I do know is that it was powerful.

The lighter side of the day included a shopping trip to the waterfront. A friend with whom I was shopping was looking for a dress for an upcoming wedding. After bypassing Louis Vuitton, Ed Hardy, Gucci and the like, she found a very elegant and unique dress in a small boutique. This $200 dress was stunning but after much hemming and hawing, my friend decided against making the purchase. Guessing what we were to experience in the up coming week, she just couldn’t justify spending the kind of money that a family can live on for a month on a dress intended for a single day. We haven’t even been out there yet, and already we are being affected by it.

Following the shopping, a group of us caught the 5:30 showing of the Sex and the City movie. For those of you who don’t follow the series, it is about a group of women who have extravagant material possessions. It was eye opening to see just how high maintenance they were and how excessively they lived. Although I enjoyed the movie and understand it was fictitious, my head couldn’t get away from comparing their lifestyle to those of the people I am soon to meet.

Saturday

Saturday was safari day! We woke up at 4:30am and rode a charter bus up to the safari grounds. Here we froze our behinds off, but saw lions, giraffes, rhinos, and cheetah. It really was an awesome experience. The cold, however, put me in a crabby mood, especially since African safaris are stereotypically warm. The experience overall was remarkable as I was literally just a few feet way from these animals. That evening we went out to a really nice traditional African restaurant. Although I ordered a coke light, a zuccini, red pepper and spinach pasta dish, and a brandy tart, I did sample other people’s ostrich, springbok, and alligator. I’m not a fan and will continue to stick with my trusted chicken.

That evening we went out on the town, sampling Long Street’s pubs and clubs. We met up with Ajith, a grad student who has been showing us around, and a few of his friends. It really was interesting comparing and contrasting the night life in South Africa and that of the US. Overall, I was just glad that all 17 of us made it home together at the end of the night.

Friday

Friday morning came all too soon as Thursday evening was spent sitting around the bed and breakfast’s living room, a good 12 of us playing music far too loudly way too late. Despite how tired we were, Steve’s lecture discussing South Africa’s current events was certainly thought provoking. This man has lived all over the world and calls home many different places because he grew up in exile. His father was a political activist and raised his family all over the African continent.

After his enlightening lecture, we went out for lunch at the water front again. My chicken marsala crepe wasn’t very good, and the general consensus of this hallel restaurant wasn’t very much in it’s favor. As luck would have it, the beautiful South African sky turned grey and our boat ride to Robben Island left a number of passengers nearly the same color. Once we hit the island, however, our experience turned to be more positive. Robben Island was the prison at which Nelson Mandella spent numerous years. Our tour was lead by an ex-prisoner of this penal complex, so we really were given an accurate account of this historical site. We saw Mandella’s jail cell and heard his story. Additionally, we went on a tour of the entire island and saw the view of Cape Town from the ocean. Amazing.

That evening a couple of us went out to a concert and met up with Steve. This is when I felt a real sense of South African culture. Prior to this, our interactions with the people were fairly limited. At the concert, I engaged in a couple conversations with people. One girl I met told me how she’d only been in Cape Town for a few years, but already calls it home. I can see why—everyone is so friendly. Never had I been to a concert where people willingly allow you to move closer to the stage. They all seem so friendly. It was really interesting when Steven introduced me to one of his friends and the two of us struck up a conversation revolving around my being Canadian and his plans of moving there. He says that South Africa is not as free as he would like it to be, and would like to move somewhere where there is less discrimination. I was a little unsure of how to take this comment. I understand that apartheid is over, but I was under the impression that things were progressing. Still, I’m far too naive and not knowledgeable enough to fully understand.

Thursday, May 29, 2008

With each passing day, our time in Cape Town seems to get better and more exhilarating. Our day long bus trip began with a brief go around of the city. The downtown area, district six, and other neighborhoods were passed through as we made our way to Cape Point. Between the beginning and the end of our voyage, we took a boat ride to the harbor. Here we saw seals and mountains as the ocean roared and the winds thrashed us about the boat. Right now in South Africa it is fall nearing winter so the climate is very humid and rainy. Parts of the day are super sunny and warm, while other parts make us feels as though we are enduring a monsoon. The weather doesn’t seem to affect the penguins, however, because we saw scores of them lining the beach. Additionally, we saw baboons, and let me tell you, they are not docile beings. One was easily the size of a Labrador and had the strength of a body builder. Plucking deeply rooted plants was as easy for him as it would be for a human to pull a blade of grass from one’s lawn. Unreal.

The other day I saw the ocean for the first time—today I touched it. The Indian Ocean is beautiful. Verbal descriptions are no way to even begin to paint a picture of this wonder. Honestly, I am in such awe at all of the sights. Maybe I am so amazed because of my lack of experience abroad. Either way it's incredible. The only thing is is that I am currently a tourist. I haven’t yet been totally immersed into the culture because unlike our interaction with the landscape, we haven’t really interacted with the people. I think this will come when we go out into the townships, though. (Don’t worry Mom, I’ll be safe). I really want to hear first hand accounts of what life is like in this region of the world, as it is so different from anything I’ve ever experienced. It is so easy to make judgments about a place so early on into one’s stay, but it won’t be until we really connect with the people that one can truly understand the culture of Cape Town.

Wednesday, May 28, 2008

Day two proved to be just as eventful and thrilling as the first. Today began with Nate making us all breakfast followed by an uphill trek to our first lecture. Undoubtedly, we go lost as we twisted up and around the campus in search of the African Studies building. Upon our arrival, we heard a brief history of South Africa which was followed by a discussion of how that shapes the country’s current state. The conversation gradually progressed into American politics and the up coming election. What surprised me the most about this class period was just how knowledgeable these African men were about US matters. One of the two presenters had never even been to the US, yet was considerably more knowledgeable about our country than a majority of us were. If the roles were reversed, I probably could only have given a minute summary of the current evens in South Africa. This man could have spoken about America for hours. This small comparison was enough to bring about the thoughts of how small minded I am.

The afternoon was comprised of a trip to the district 6 museum, exploration of the downtown area, a grocery store run, and dinner at Nandos. At the museum we learned about an area predominantly settled by people of color decades ago. These people were forced to leave their homes on the sole basis of the color of their skin during apartheid. I couldn’t even imagine someone or some group asking me to abandon my home because I was the “wrong color.” Now, their buildings have been demolished, but their stories continue to thrive.

When downtown, we saw the parliament building and other big executive buildings, highlighting the wealth and power in this country. Interestingly enough, just a block away was a market with a ton of street vendors trying to entice tourists to buy their imitation Coach purses and expired bath products. I was surprised to see such poverty and power in such close vicinity. Even on our walk home from the pub that evening we saw numerous homeless people huddled up against office buildings, sheltering themselves from the pouring South African rain. How interesting was the contrast.

Tuesday, May 27, 2008

I may have found heaven on earth. This city is incredible, and I’m guessing that I’ve seen maybe a tiny fraction of it. We walked out our front doors and were greeted by bright blue skys, a light breeze, and the clouds sweeping over table mountain. Our walk to the Cape Town University campus was scenic and informative, but more than anything it was breath taking. The U is situated on the mountains. As you advance from the base to the top, the buildings and the sights progressively become more and more amazing. One could compare some of the sights of this campus to ours. There is a grand hall in the center with huge pillars that reminded us of Northrop. There was another section with a walk way like thing with the buildings lining the side which was similar to the mall area at the U of M. The point differential was the topography. The contours and curves are unreal, the colors are vibrant, and the various building materials are so diverse. I’m still amazed.

After the campus tour, we had a brief run down of the popular main street attractions. The restaurants, bars, and shops are definitely places we intend to frequent. Apparently, the KFC here is better than the one in the US. Even Colonel Sanders is in love with this place.

Lunch was unbelievable. We were sitting on the coast, over looking the ocean with mountains in our peripherals, a harbor behind us, and the most incredible dishes sitting before us. This eatery, Primi Warf, served up huge portions, delicious cocktails, and provided the perfect place for mid-afternoon reflection on the days events. So many of us felt that this city was so metropolitan-like that it didn’t yet really feel as if we were in Africa, but instead in some US or European city. Others sensed that this experience was too good to be true. There were multiple times where I needed physically lift my jaw because it had just dropped in amazement at the things I was experiencing. For a great majority of the day, there was a perma-smile spread across my face as I took in everything around me. (Speaking of perma-smile, we bumped into two girls who were on America’s Next Top Model. Cole and Nate got their numbers, and apparently we are invited to a party they are hosting tomorrow night! Ha! Also, I forgot to mention that I shook Rev. Run’s, as in Run from Run DMC/Run’s house, hand in the Minneapolis airport. Two celebrity run-ins in two days? Not bad!)
Whew! After months of anticipation, weeks of planning, days of packing, and hours on an airplane, we finally arrived in Cape Town. The flights were l--o--n--g, but the excitement of our upcoming trip made it bearable. When we landed in Cape Town on Monday night, we were tired, cramped, hungry and sweaty, but couldn't have felt better knowing that we were finally on the ground in Africa. The 16 of us from Minnesota met up with our professor, the interstudy crew, and a fellow classmate who were awaiting our arrival at the airport. Once our luggage had been collected, we set off for the houses we would call home for the upcoming weeks.

The initial excitement of us jumping out of our taxis in front of our house was comparable to that of the first episode of a season of the Real World. Never had I seen such exhausted people re-energize so quickly. The remainder of the evening consisted of settling in. In addition to unpacking our belongings, it was also a time for us to unpack so many thoughts, concerns, and hopes about our up coming experience. All night long, we bounced the “what ifs,” and “I can’t wait fors” around the house.